Europe 2011 Second Stop: Brugge

Arrival, Sunday, April 17, 2011



We rented a Eurocar for the drive to Brugge and Normandy. Got lucky and didn't have to pay the intercountry fee of 400 euro since somebody from France had just dropped the car in Amsterdam. We loaded up and drove about 2.5 hours to Brugge. Along the way we saw field after field of flowering yellow plants that were obviously being harvested for something. Decided to ask Aurelie. We parked at the city train station and took a bus 5 min to city center. Cobblestone streets and medieval architecture. There were several lace shops, belgian beer stores, and of course chocolate for which the region is famous. We partook of beer and chocolate but left the lace behind - the lace I liked was "antique" and started at 975 euro!


We wanted to walk up the bell tower from the movie "In Brugges" but the line was too long. So we did a walking tour of the city instead and stumbled upon a flea market. Decided to sit down and do some people watching and we ended up in front of a group of local townies. People kept stopping by to chat, waving hello from across the street, etc. It seemed like the entire local population was walking the streets, hanging out on the sidewalk bars. A fun look at how the locals live. There weren't many American's in the crowd.

After we checked out the two dutch windmills in town we went back to our hotel around 16:30 (7:30am PST) for our daily Skype with Maren. Then we start our beer tour. First stop: De Garre. It's hole in the wall tucked away off a narrow alley that would have been difficult to locate if we hadn't been warned. Here's a YouTube video De Garre (taken by someone else ) to get an idea of what the bar was like…and Margo was actually our server too. We ordered the house beer for Brent and a blond for me and spent an hour pouring over the beer menu. We got to talking with a local couple and then a student that wandered in - it just happened that she was from Carlsbad attending college in London. The local couple was very friendly and knew English so we all talked until they left. Then another group came in - another group of locals with one guy that was from Del Mar. We chatted with them for a bit and then continued our belgian beer tour, heading to t' Bruges Beertje (Little Bear). There we met an engineer from SF, and couple from Gent (he) and London (she). We all chatted for several hours before we decided the belgian beers had done us in.

Overall, the picturesque-ness of Brugge surprised me. I could spend another day hidden behind the lens exploring what she has to say. But on to Normandy and Paris. The following morning we had breakfast in the hotel restaurant which is a total rip-off, but none of the cafes/restaurants open until 8:30-9am. If you're on a schedule that's a late start so the hotels capitalize on tourists.

Europe 2011 First Stop: Amsterdam

Arrival Friday, April 15, 2011 5:53am
After an 8 hour flight from Minneapolis to Amsterdam we arrive to a nearly deserted airport. Quickly passed through passport check and customs. Tried to purchase train tickets with Mastercard but card not accepted. Found a cash machine and hopped our train to Amsterdam Central. Only two or three other people on the train. It's 7am. The city is still sleeping.

From the train station at Amsterdam Central it's a 5 minute walk to our hotel. There's a foul smell in the air. Reminds me of Dublin. There are bikes piled everywhere. We cross a bridge. Not much foot or road traffic right now. We stop by the hotel to see how long until our room is ready and head back out to explore. Immediately start noticing garbage piled in the streets. Trash strewn across the sidewalks; bottles, cans, plates, flung here and there. The source of the stench.

By now it's 7:30am and still it's like a ghost town. There's no place open for coffee or breakfast. No convenience stores open. I see a few shop owners unlocking doors, starting to set tables and chairs outside. But still an hour from opening. Looks like this is a city that parties late into the night and starts the day late.

We wander through the red light district. See many women in stalls donning leather and lace, trying to lure the clientele. Around 8:15 we head back to the hotel restaurant for fuel. By then the city's starting to clean up. There are men using stick brooms to sweep all the random trash into the street where it's picked up and a cleaning crew follows, one guy driving the water truck while the other walks around spraying the streets clean. Better to stay out of their way.

After breakfast our room still isn't ready so we give them our phone number and head out to explore. By now it's 9:15 and the city is bustling with people. Most of the locals ride bikes to get from place to place - that explains all the bikes lining the sidewalks and piled in front of buildings. And the multi level bike parking garage I saw by the train satiation! All the bikes look pretty much the same: old, black, and rusting with a saddle bag on the back or a wooden box secured to the front for caring things. Some are modified with large wooden carts on the front that can hold two small children. Bikes/bikers are literally everywhere. That is the thing that really stood out about this city. The streets are designed with both bikers and cars in mind with specific lanes and lights for each. We quickly learn when you cross the street in Amsterdam you're looking not only for cars but more importantly for the bikes coming from every direction.

We head the opposite direction from the red light district. Here the streets are lined with design stores, bakeries, flower shops, etc. The canals are lined with house boats. The trees are blooming. Again, there are bikers everywhere. After checking in at our hotel we ate lunch and stopped at a street cafe for a beer. We ended up sitting next to some ladies from the San Diego area. It's a small world.

Later that night we went to Ardensnest for a few beers before dinner. Discovered them online - experts in Dutch beers which is unique. Located on the "good" side of town and more of a local bar. Exactly what we were looking for. Very few tourists around. Fantastic selection of beer. From there we wandered through the streets and stumbled upon a tapas restaurant for dinner. Pidgeon, vegetables, clams, rabbit - very different from our everyday life and very good! From there we checked out a coffee house, people watched in the red light district and headed back to the hotel.

Saturday, April 16, 2011
Second day in Amsterdam. Woke up around 9:30am. What a treat to sleep in. Had breakfast at a cafe across from the hotel (they played Mariah Carey concert on TV - lame!), then we toured the city by boat. A tourist trap but fun. Learned they actually planned to build the houses leaning forward so they'd look bigger and to avoid damaging the furniture when they're lifting it up. The houses are tall and narrow so they all have a hook hanging off the gable to lift furniture through the windows. Got off the boat at one point and went in search of a street market. Wandered a few miles only to discover we were walking down the wrong canal! Oh well, fun to explore. Next time I'd try to rent a private boat/taxi for a 1 hour tour - could share with a total of 6-8 people.

There are mostly European travelers. Not many Americans. Most locals speak English so it's not difficult to communicate.

All Smiles

This captures Maren's approach to every day:

Bwah-hahahahaha! Scary Ladybug!

Three months ago we were in Costco and stumbled randomly upon halloween costumes. Your dad and I weren't sure which McDonald farm character you'd prefer so we let you choose between the ragged foster's chicken costume and the cute little lady bug. You decisively chose ladybug. You snatched the costume from my grip and kept hugging it and kissing it while we roamed the isles finishing our grocery shopping. When we got home you immediately began practicing flitting around like a little lady bug. Well done, little bug! Well done!

Week Forty-Three

Dear Maren,

As of October 7, you're embarking on your tenth month of adventure. You're crawling all over the house. First you scooted around, then you learned to get up on your knees to rock back and forth, and now you cruise around the house with ease.

You also love to climb. You scale the back of the couch without any help and you love to pull yourself into a standing position using drawer knobs for hand grips. You're always lunging for the knob that's just out of reach. You lean against the cabinet, get up on your tip-toes and reach for that one shiny knob that's just over your head. You do this at the counter where we make your milk which makes me think that's your motivation. Must. Get. Milk.

You've become much more communicative in the last week. When I come get you out of bed in the morning you pause to give me a hug before trying to wriggle out of my arms. When we go to Miriam's house and knock on the door you watch for it to open and then make a sound that sounds remarkably like "hi". We were playing with your stuffed frog today. I would kiss you, then I would pick-up the frog and kiss him. When I gave the frog back to you, you held him up to my face for more kisses.

You're learning something new everyday. I can't wait to see what you discover tomorrow!

Love,
Mama

For My Grandma's and Grandpa's

Nine Months

Dear Maren,

Last week you turned nine months old and you're constantly in motion. In July you were moving awkwardly across the floor using your whole body for traction. Like a worm. Now you've mastered the crawl. You can get from point a to point b in a flash. You can easily navigate a room while holding on to furniture or walls for support. Your favorite destinations are your toy basket in the living room, the computer in the office (where daddy let's you use the keyboard), and the kitchen where you gum the door knobs and pull towels off the oven.

Four weeks ago you cut your first teeth: two bottom teeth and two top teeth. Now you're working on your incisors. The first sign of the impending incisors was two nights ago when you decided you simply were not going to go to bed. It was six pm, your usual bedtime, and you just couldn't relax. You were soooo tired. Your eyes were half closed. Your head was bobbing up and down on my shoulder, but you just couldn't get comfortable. It took us 90 minutes of countless songs and constant bouncing until you finally sacked out. It's not like you to be fussy so we knew something was up. I searched the internet the next morning, felt your gums, and wah-la. Instant diagnosis. Teething.

You are so infatuated with Oliver right now. Whenever he's in your line of sight you chase after him in hopes of grasping a chunk of his golden fur. But he anticipates your approach and evades your attack. Last night he decided to turn the tables. I brought you into our bedroom at 4:00am because you were restless. You're usually asleep within two minutes of me setting you down. I knew I was in trouble the minute you caught sight of Oliver on our bed. You pulled yourself up into a standing position at the foot of the bed, eye to eye with Oliver, and started screaming with glee. And Oliver just sat there. Staring. Taunting you. At 4:00am. I remained laying motionless in bed for the next 20 minutes, praying that you would go back to sleep, that Oliver would lose interest in the tease. Your dad managed to sleep through the first ten minutes and then he rolled over to my side of the bed, took a look at you and Oliver, and started laughing. That's when I took you back to your room. And you fell asleep without another peep.

Being a mama is probably the hardest and most rewarding job I've ever had. I can't wait to see what's around the corner.

I love you, Maren.

Love,
Mama